A lot of daily routine tasks can affect retention, every client has different skin tones, textures and complexions. We as an artist have to take everything in consideration when it comes to a client complaining that there extensions are just constantly falling out. Once you got your wrapping techniques and glue usage under control it comes down to " what does my client do at home to make her retention suck?"
BASICS ON RETENTION
Each full set requires fills after to keep up with the set. This is where your skills with retention comes into play. Each lash goes through a different phase, anagen (growth phase), calagen (resting phase and telogen ( transition phase) requiring old extensions to be taken off or replace ones that reached the last phase of the lash cycle. Typically a 2 week fill your clients should be coming back with more then 50%. With all the knowledge with what could go wrong or why certain things are happening and more then half your clients are coming back for a 2 week fill with less then 50% , This will help you.
There are multiple things to avoid after extensions.
Oils: using any oil based products , such as mascara or eyeliner can affect your retention. Oils break down the lash glue causing the extension to slide off with help. We do not want that because it gives us more to do when the client comes in for a 2 week fill and takes up more time interfering with other appointments. Also be mindful your own body sweat can affect your retention. For example, someone who goes to the gym consistently and sweats a lot can have issues with retention. When you have sweat in a routine, highly recommend fluff guard to sell at your salon. Fluff guard helps with drying up oils, it works just like dry shampoo but you still have to shampoo when u get home, this is just to help hold them on until u get home.
Moisturizers: make sure your client is not putting moisturizer anywhere near their extensions. Remember, moisture is not a lashes best friend . Some clients I've had after trying everything , I asked if they use moisturizer right before they go to bed and would say yes . sometimes the problem when putting it on right before bed, if you are a rough sleeper meaning tossing and turning, this can result in the client pushing the moisturizer all over and on the lashes causing them to slip off quicker. I recommend to put the moisturizer on at least an hour or two hours before bed so that it can fully seep into the skin instead of just sitting on top of the skin. This has actually worked, but has always been a last resort solution.
Mascara and eyeliner: never ever use mascara on the extensions. This will result in clumping and fallout. Mascara normally have oils in the product and we absolutely do not want oil on the extension. even with putting mascara on bottom lashes, you have to be mindful that every time you blink it will transfer to the top of your lashes. Same with eyeliner, it always has some sort of oil in the formula. Highly recommend to sell lash extension safe mascara for the bottom lashes and eyeliner , because some clients cannot live without it.
Pool and salt water: going swimming is a must in the summer time to cool down, yes you can still go swimming and get your lashes wet but, take into consideration that chlorine will make the extensions stick and feel "crunchy". Highly recommend after swimming to shampoo as soon as you're done or rinse with a bottle of water as much as u can until you have access to your lash shampoo. Same with salt water , the salt will make the lashes crunchy and possibly hurt due to them sticking together. Yes when you cry that includes salt. So make sure to tell your client to try and look up when crying or hold a tissue on the bottom to soak the tears. Same with swimming make sure to shampoo again to keep the extensions clean and soft.
Sleeping on your back: you will notice when your client comes back for a 2 week fill that one eye is fuller then the other and that's because they sleep on that side or toss and turn throughout the night . But at the end of the day we cannot control how or what we do when we sleep. Funny to know but they make eye masks while you sleep with cups on them to help protect the lashes while you sleep, it basically looks like a mini bra for your face . But works and helps rough sleepers! You could also start selling these to help your client at home with retention.
Steam: saunas and steam rooms are skeptical when it comes to lash extensions. Steam will make the lashes stick with the heat and being wet. Saunas are just so hot and will make each lash extension stick. But when it comes to showering , shampoo either in or first thing out of the shower. Or if your client wants to be extra careful goggles work but are definitely not the most classy look.
Shampooing: every client is different, every skin type is different. For example, someone with oily skin are prone to loose more extensions quicker compared to someone with dry skin. some clients will only shampoo every 3 days or some need to shampoo every night. Highly recommend shampooing with a small fluffy brush instead of clients using their fingers. A brush can get in every crevice where a finger can be rougher and only do the top and bottom layer.
how often should my client shampoo?
everyday - someone who wears a full face of makeup or makeup in general ( fun fact, lash shampoo can be used to remove makeup all over your face, especially the lbla Micellar water )
every other day - someone who doesn't wear makeup at all or rarely
whenever - some clients i will tell " you will know when you need to wash them, when they don't look fluffy and light anymore wash them, or if they look clumpy or feel crusty, wash them" * this is only for clients that DO NOT wear makeup !!
Picking and Pulling: this is how the phrase " lash extensions ruin your lashes " phrase comes into play. Playing with lash extensions is the ultimate natural ruin er. Picking or pulling at the extensions 9 times out of 10 will take the natural lash out with it . Tell your client to call and come in if any are bothering them so they can be properly looked at encase one is hurting/twisted.
Brushing while wet: brushing your extensions while they are wet with a spoulie can rip them out. That is why its important to let them air dry or use the cool setting on a blow dryer. Brushing while wet keep in mind the extensions are already all touching together. Once dry, each extension is on its own lash and not connected to any. Another thing to sell to your clients are lash fans, specifically for this reason.
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