This is your guide for shaping and tinting brows. Learn how to color match and shape according to your clients features.
Brow shaping
According to a clients face, the brows should suit your client. If the clients inner brow is drawn down it will cause a U shape brow and can create shadow in the eye socket. You want to make sure the inner brow is straight. The inner brow should be aligned with the tail of the brow. Now when it comes to brow tails, they should not be going down the side of the eye. This can also cause the eyes to have a shadow or give an illusion the face is drooping. The main goal is to avoid any drooping of the face and to lift the eyes instead.
The eyebrow tail should be measured at a 45 degree angle. You want 3 points in the brow (shown to the right). The head, arch and tail. Measure all points connected to the outer point of the nose besides the head of the brow, you measure with the highest outer point of the nose. Feel free to use a white eyeliner pencil or charcoal strings.
Brow Hair Removal
When waxing brows you want to clean the area from any oils or makeup before you even start. This will give you the maximum adhearege from the wax application. When using soft wax, you want to leave a extra barrier left out between the brows natural shape and where your points of removal are. Soft wax can spread when a strip is applied and pushed down. When you push down wax it expands. You can grab extra hairs with tweezers to give a clean shape. Hard wax is a different story because the way you apply the wax it wont move. With hard wax you can go a little closer but you do not want to carve the brow completely with wax because it can grab hairs you need to stay. Once you are done waxing, go in with tweezers to grab and stragglers and to perfect the fine line under the brow. Do not try and change the brows shape with wax. It can go wrong in so many ways. Grab the majority of stray hairs with wax then really shape with tweezers. When tweezing you want to pull the skin taught and pull the hair out in the direction it is growing out from for a less painful pluck. Again ,with the brows head make it look crispy and straight like the picture above to avoid any shadows. When trimming brows you never want to cut a shape. It will result into being uneven or choppy. Brush the brows up and just trim the longest points.
Tinting the brows
Color theory plays a huge roll in tinting. A client either has a warm tone or cool tone. When dealing with warm tones like red, orange or yellow you need to tint with a ash color or blue base to tone out the warmth. If a client comes in with a warm brown and you tone with a brown that has warm tones in the mix like red, orange or yellow. The client will have a very warm tone in the sun. With warmer clients you want to tone with ash colors . Use which other color you need to cancel out, it will be across on the color wheel. For example, warm tones cancel out with cool towns to neutralize. Red neutralizes with green, yellow neutralizes with purple and orange neutralizes with blue. Think about it, if you are a blonde and feel you are yellow, you use purple shampoo to cancel the warmth out. But after a short lesson of color theory we can go to " what color do I use"? You want to try and match the clients roots. Always go lighter before darker. You can ALWAYS go darker but you can never go lighter! Blonde clients I like to use a dark blonde or dirty blonde aka " neutral" shade. then if they want to be darker I will mix my lightest shade with a tiny brown. When mixing colors, the lighter color has to be a greater amount to the darker. So when mixing dark blonde with a brown, you want a quarter of the darker color compared to the lighter or else the lighter shade will disappear. Now when a client comes in with black hair and says " I want black dye" you need to ask them if they have had black die on the brow first and if they say yes by all means do it. Otherwise start with a dark brown and if they want darker add a tiny dot of black to the brown shade to get a darker shade of their liking. You always want to apply tint precisely and neat. Never put tint all over the skin because it will be harder to clean up. Tint should not stain the skin, only brow hairs and if it does, you are using the wrong tint. Always tint with a semi permanent. Make sure to get all excess tint on the skin before your client leaves. When tinting start with the brow tails and work your way in. When removing the tint remove the head of the brow first and do it in sections to get an ombre effect rather than a stamped look. You want the beginning of the brows to be the lightest and the tails to be the darkest.
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